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-UE
Ailanthus altissma
Also known aptly as the ghetto palm, the Tree of Heaven, the Stink Tree, and about a dozen other names, which is the first sign of a plant being a noxious weed.
The males smell like rotting vegetables and can be smelt from several feet away. The females drop hundreds of seeds that are so poisonous to plants that if they even get in the same flower pot as a plant, that plant is pretty much doomed. They grow in almost any conditions, grow nearly as fast as bamboo, they're nearly impossible to destroy, look ugly and are generally a pain in the ass. One is growing in my backyard, through solid concrete, after I cut the entire tree down 3 times.
But they have 2 weaknesses: Borax and shade. If they don't get enough sunlight, they will die. But my city in their infinite wisdom cut down most of the trees in the area, replacing the beautiful maple and elm trees with good old Ailanthus so it can continue to spread and make my neighborhood look even less attractive to potential homeowners.
Comments
Invasive species suck.
Honest answer:
#1. Cut tree down low to the ground.
#2. Put empty garbage can / cardboard box over the stump.
#3. ????
#4. Profit.
For bonus points, kill it with fire between steps 1 and 2.
The hack-and-squirt or injection method is very effective and minimizes sprouting and suckering when applied during the summer. Root suckering will be an increasing problem in the fall, winter and spring. This method requires first making downward-angled cuts into the sapwood around the tree trunk at a comfortable height, using a hand ax. With spray bottle or wand in the other hand, squirt a straight (100%) concentration of a water-soluble triclopyr product (e.g., Garlon® 3A) into the cuts within a minute or two, applying 1-2 milliliters into each cut (typically 1-2 squirts of a trigger squirt bottle) so that the bottom of the cut is covered, but liquid doesn't run out of it. Generally, you would make about 1 hack cut for each inch of diameter plus one (i.e., for a 10 inch diameter tree, make about 11 cuts). Space the cuts so that about 1-2 inches of uncut living tissue remains between them. A continuous line of cuts around the trunk would likely cause the tree to go into emergency response mode and react by producing basal sprouts and root suckers. For this reason, girdling or frilling (girdling followed by herbicide) is not highly recommended unless long term follow-up treatment is possible. While spaced injection works well for ailanthus, it is not as effective on some other species. This method can be used with trees of any size, though it is most productive with stems over 2 inches in diameter. This method is relatively easy for one person to do, with hatchet in one hand and spray bottle in the other, but should be done with a buddy nearby in case of an accident. Monitor the treatment area and be prepared to follow-up with a foliar application the next year to control any basal sprouts or root suckers that might emerge. Glyphosate products have sometimes been recommended for control of ailanthus using this method, but several field trials have shown consistently poor long-term control of basal sprouts and root suckers at any time of year. Other herbicides which have shown to be effective for hack-and-squirt control of ailanthus during the growing season are dicamba (e.g., Banvel®, Vanquish®), imazapyr (e.g., Arsenal® A.C., Chopper®), and 2,4-D + picloram (e.g., Pathway®). Dicamba is particularly effective in October.
The cut stump method is useful in areas where the trees need to be removed from the site and will be cut as part of the process. While situations exist that dictate this method over the others given above, felling trees is usually less effective in killing the root system, slower, more labor intensive, and more hazardous to personnel than other methods. This method is likely to be most successful during the growing season, with diminishing success through the early fall. Dormant season applications may prevent resprouting from the stump itself, but will do little to inhibit root suckering. However, at any time of year, if the tree must be cut it is better to treat the stump than not. Application of herbicide to the cut stumps must be conducted immediately after cutting, within 5-15 minutes of the cut with water soluble formulations, longer with oil mixtures, to ensure uptake of the chemical before the plant seals the cut area off. The mixture may be painted on with a paint brush or sprayed on using a spray bottle or backpack sprayer. A mixture of 20% Garlon® 4 plus 80% oil dilutant, as for basal bark spraying (above), may be used. In this case the whole stump surface and sides to the ground line would be sprayed. Another option is to use Garlon® 3A at 100%, treating only the outer 1/3 of the stump surface. Be prepared to follow-up with a foliar application the next year to control any stump sprouts or root suckers which emerge. Other herbicides which have shown to be effective in stump treatment of ailanthus are the same as those listed above for hack and squirt or injection..